Day Trip to Ravello

Without a car, we'd been feeling a bit cooped up on base. So, our third weekend in Italy we decided to rent a car for the weekend to begin exploring nearby sights. (Most cars in Italy, by the way, have a standard transmission. Am I the last woman in Italy who doesn't know how to drive a stick shift? Probably. Just never had one to learn on and couldn't be bothered, really...) Anyway, Saturday morning we settled on a day trip to Ravello, a town high on the rugged cliffs above the Dragone valley, with beautiful views of the Mediterranean and the Amalfi coast.

We plugged in our GPS coordinates and set out for the hour-long drive. Soon after we entered the highway, we were exiting the highway. "GPS girl" decided we should take the road less traveled through the hills--probably the most direct route, but also the curviest one possible! (Doesn't make me want to learn how to drive a standard...) So, up, up and around we went! And up, up and out came Miranda's breakfast...with some warning, thankfully, into a plastic bag 10 minutes before we arrived at our destination!

We entered the piazza, where the impressive Duomo takes center stage. We browsed the shops, the kids chased the pigeons, and we ate lunch at the family-run restaurant, Cumpa Cosima, right off the square. We were told to eat more to clean our plates, but I just couldn't do it.

Luckily, Mama Netta didn't hold it against us and brought us her choice of homemade dessert for the girls--some fresh cherries, and a mini eclair. They scarfed it, and Brian and I only got one tiny taste each. So, she proceeded to bring us a piece of chocolate cream layer cake, and when we ate all that, she brought another slice just for Brian (which of course, he shared with his girls, since he knows what's good for him.) Mama Netta seemed to pull the amount of the bill out of thin air, but it worked out to be a great value and a great dining experience!

Then we stopped in Ceramiche da Lena, a popular good-quality ceramic shop. Margherita enjoyed pointing out which pattern Rachel Ray chose for her dishes while on her honeymoon. While keeping the kids away from all the breakables, I poured over all the options and settled on my first piece of Italian pottery--a beverage pitcher painted with lemons, which the Amalfi coast is known for.

And when life gives them lemons, the Italians make limoncello! So we stopped by the tiny factory, Profumi della Costiera, to taste (and buy) what some describe as some of the best limoncello made in Italy. Strong, but yummy!

Then we wandered around to take in the beautiful views. After a long walk through the town, we ended up at Villa Cimbrone, with its beautiful gardens and magnificent view overlooking the Mediterranean--just a tease to make us want to get even closer to it next time.

Summer Vacation Part 2: Lake Maggiore and Lunch in Switzerland

Part two of our vacation week took us about 3 more hours north to the town of Stresa, on Lake Maggiore, which is located to the south of the Alps. Lake Maggiore and Lake Como to the east are upscale vacation resort areas where famous people such as George Clooney have luxurious vacation villas. We stayed at a fancy hotel with a pool overlooking the lake. It was built in the 1930's and during its time must have been quite the hotel! We happen to notice we were the youngest guests by at least 2 generations (and that's comparing Brian and me, not the girls!)

Isola Bella, Isola Pescatori, and Isola Madre are part of the Borromean islands and are located within the lake a short distance from Stresa by ferry. On our first full day in Stresa, we started by visiting the beautiful Isola Bella, where in the 1600's Carlo Borromeo built a palace for his wife. Today, the palace shows which room Napolean stayed in when he'd been a guest.

Next we arrived at Isola Pescatori, where naturally, we ate fish caught from the lake for lunch--fish risotto, to be exact. Delicious! Then we ended up at Isola Madre, where we saw beautiful gardens and even a peacock with his feathers open.

Our second full day, we decided to take the Lake Maggiore Express, which was a circuitous route north by train to Switzerland, and then back south via a ferry on the lake. First, we took the local train, then boarded the Locarno FART train (yes, we couldn't help but take a picture and chuckle every time we said that).

The scenery was beautiful and the girls even took a little nap along the way, which was a bonus! We arrived in Locarno, Switzerland with about two hours to kill before we headed to board the ferry. So, we entered the Piazza Grande, famous for its International film festival every August, and found a restaurant where we had pizza, panini, and a cheese/veggie crepe.

Then we boarded the large ferry boat for the relaxing, two-hour ride back to Stresa. It was a lot of transportation, but life is about the journey, isn't it? Although the destination wasn't bad either. Who knew we could go to Switzerland just to lunch?! Our only disappointment was there was no one around to stamp our passports!

Summer Vacation Part 1: Orvieto and Cinque Terre

Our sponsors (the people in our command who volunteer to help us figure out what we need to know about living in Naples before and after we arrive) happen to be friends from Norfolk the first time we lived there. Brian was in his pediatric residency with Scott, and his wife, Suzanne, is the OB who delivered Sydney! They have really enjoyed exploring Italy and Europe during their 3 years here and were gracious enough to invite us to take a 6-day vacation with them and their two boys, so they could show us the ropes. So, thanks to them, we hit the ground running!

Our second week here, we were whisked away (not an overstatement with Scott driving like an Italian!) in the comfort of a 9-person van--a little large by Italian standards, but it worked out well especially since it was a 6-hour drive. Along the way, we stopped for lunch in Orvieto--a small town situated high on a cliff with a huge cathedral (duomo) at its town center. It is said that a priest in 1623 had his doubts about transubstantiation (the Roman Catholic belief that the bread and wine actually become the body and blood of Christ at the moment of consecration during Mass). When the corporal (the white cloth which touches the bread and cup) suddenly became stained with blood at his hands, it was seen as a miracle to confirm the belief of transubstantiation. The cathedral was built in part to glorify this miracle and display this "Corporal of Bolsena."

After a relaxing lunch and our first gelato in Italy, we traveled on to Cinque Terre (meaning "five lands"), which was our first main destination. It is part of the northwestern coast of Italy known as the Italian Riviera and is composed of five villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Each village is built high on the cliffs overlooking the sea. (Corniglia was so built so high up that, in fact, we never made it up to see it...strollers and 368 steps are mutually exclusive!)

A walking trail called Sentiero Azzurro ("Light Blue Trail"), connects the five villages. The trail from Riomaggiore to Manarola is called the Via Dell'Amore ("Love Walk") and since it was the only stroller-friendly part of the trail, it's the only trail we took. Then we hopped on the train that connects each town.

We ate lunch in Manarola al fresco and enjoyed some pasta with pesto sauce, for which this area is known. The pasta was followed by a delicious whole fish grilled simply with olive oil and salt. The girls ate more than half of the fish, but who could deny their children such a healthy food?! Anchovies of Monterosso are a local specialty, too. They are designated with a Protected Designation of Origin status from the European Union. Although we bought some for my Dad, I can't say I tried any!

One of the most amazing sights to see was the steep mountainsides used to cultivate grapes and olives. Some even required special machinery to transport the farmer up and down the cliffs to tend to the crops.

Our last day in Cinque Terre we dined al fresco AGAIN (not that it got old!) for lunch, this time in Monterosso. Then we stayed on the beach in Monterosso for the afternoon. We rented an umbrella and chairs and the kids played in the warm sand and we all enjoyed the refreshing water and cool sea breeze.

Yes, we are just beginning to get a taste of la dolce vita ("the sweet life"), and I think we like it!

Home Sweet Home in Gricignano, Campania, Italy

You could say we're in Naples. But technically we are living about 30 miles north of the city of Naples in a town called Gricignano in the region of Campania, Italy. We will live on the "Support Site" base, which mainly has housing (3-story garden-style apartments, unless you are a Commanding Officer in which case you get one of a handful of villas), the Navy Lodge, schools, the hospital, the Navy Exchange store, the Commissary, the gym and pool, a bowling alley, a food court, a movie theater, and not a whole lot more. But we think the safety from the petty crimes and break-ins Naples is known for is well worth the confinement.

Just outside the gate, I hate to say, is not the beautiful Italy you may be thinking of with jealousy. There are piles and piles of trash everywhere you look. It's really sad. There is also a dangerous narrow overpass that has no pedestrian walkway, which given the fact that Italians are known for their crazy driving, precludes access to much of anything by foot. Heck, it precludes access even by car for a good many Americans, especially those new to the area.

But once we are able to get over the initial culture shock, get a car (with updated GPS!), and venture outside the gate, a whole world of European adventures awaits. And that is why we are here.

The view of Mt. Vesuvius from base

US Naval Hospital Naples

An apartment building

The girls in front of the Navy Lodge

Benvenuti A Napoli!

Well, we survived! All 19 hours and 3 flights. And we have arrived (figuratively and literally)! All 12 bags, 4 people, 2 car seats, and 1 dog.

Despite our worries about Mitch, he was fine and everything else went off without a hitch. We even had the opportunity to meet Gilles Marini, "Luc" from Brothers and Sisters, on the last plane to Naples--a sight for sore eyes after the long journey!

After collecting our 3 carts full of luggage we exited the airport without even going through customs--much easier than we had imagined! Our wonderful sponsor, Scott, met us just outside the airport, scooped us up in a van, and shuttled us to our Navy Lodge villa. This is a comfortable furnished, two-bedroom apartment that we'll call "home" for up to 60 days--hopefully far fewer.

After quickly dumping our stuff and the dog, he took us out for our first pizza in Naples, at a restaurant called "Arizona." (Apparently the owner visited Arizona and loved it there.) The pizza, along with the caprese made with homemade mozzarella di bufala and the local wine, was delicious, but we were so tired and hungry, I forgot to take any photos! No worries, I'm sure we'll be back.

We are lucky and excited to be living in Naples and experiencing another culture--and one so focused on living in the moment and leisurely enjoying good food and wine, no less! So, benvenuti to my new blog, Norwoods A Napoli, and thanks for wanting to share in our European adventures. Hopefully, reading about them will make you want to schedule your trip to visit!