Let the Laughs Begin

Okay, if you've even noticed, maybe you've been wondering where I've been. Under a rock, really. But now--hopefully--the initial overseas adjustment to Naples is officially over! I'm sure I'll still have my moments, but for the most part, I feel much more comfortable being in Italy and Naples. The kids are in school some of the time. Yay! I'm getting offbase and driving places by myself (well, not without the GPS). And I am even helping to plan our family trips and adventures (albeit last minute). But most importantly, instead of feeling nearly terrified to do anything that would draw attention to myself, I can now find humor in our cultural/language mistakes and laugh at myself--or Brian, as the case may be.

So far, my favorite "foreigner moment" has been the time we returned to a local pizzeria having learned from our Italian neighbor to ask for more cheese, since they were a little skimpy the first time. And this time, Brian was feeling a little bold, so he ordered a Margherita pizza as usual and also took a stab at a Neopolitan pizza, even though he wasn't able to read the Italian description below it. After all, we are in Napoli, so we might as well find out how Neopolitans like their pizza. He ordered both pizzas with "molto fromaggio, per favore."

Little did we know...the Neopolitan way (at this restaurant, but not necessarily everywhere in Naples) is WITHOUT cheese...so in effect, what Brian ordered was a cheeseless pizza with extra cheese! Hmm, the waiter gave us a strange look, walked away, and returned a few minutes later to try to clarify our order. Luckily, Brian guessed our mistake and we changed our order to two Margherita pizzas with extra cheese. Although the waiter wasn't rude enough to laugh at us, we sure got a good laugh!

What are the odds Brian would pick a cheeseless pizza and add extra cheese to it?! I'm just glad he did--the whole experience helps to bolster my belief that something larger than myself made me snap out of feeling foreign in this foreign country. Well, that...and it's always easier to laugh at someone else's mistakes! But at least now that I can move past embarrassment and find humor in our inherent strangeness, I can really embrace living in Italy, mistakes and all.

Labor Day Weekend in Lecce and Puglia

I've said it before, and I'll say it many times again, I'd never make it as a travel agent. I love taking trips, but planning trips is not something I enjoy. It's partly being in a new country and not knowing the language or how things work. But it is mostly that I hate the responsibility of making the right choices for the whole family, even in the most familiar surroundings. But even though we planned this weekend trip at the last minute, it turned out so well that--uh oh--it sort of reinforced the idea of waiting till the last minute to plan the next trip we take! I guess if it's meant to be, it will be!

We knew we wanted to make use of our Labor Day 3-day weekend. So, we decided to head down to the Puglia region in the "heel" of Italy, which was about a 4-hour drive from Napoli. We'd heard Lecce was a beautiful city about 20 minutes from the Adriatic Sea, but we decided to stay closer to the water and the beach, which was the first place we went as soon as we arrived. (The girls will forever have the dark, volcanic sand from the Adriatic sea in their bathing suits...good thing it's the end of the season.)

This trip, we wanted to try an agriturismo, which is a working farm along with a bed and breakfast that is meant to attract tourists

looking for an authentic, relaxing and rural experience. The agriturismo we chose was on an organic olive farm.

The price for two nights also included dinner (which was delicious and made with organic olive oil, of course), a horseback riding lesson (or ride around the ring for our little kids), a pool, and access to the private beach-front property within a 3-km drive, along with chairs and an umbrella. It was just the right balance of activity and relaxation.

On Sunday we drove into Lecce to see the sights. First, we saw the Roman amphitheater built in the 2nd century with seating for 25,000 people; it was buried by other monuments over the years and today remains half buried.

Then we visited Piazza del Duomo to visit Lecce's cathedral, which is said to be one of Italy's

most significant. It was built in 1144, rebuilt in 1230, and restored between 1659-1670. Then we meandered around looking at the beautiful, Baroque-style architecture of many of the churches in Lecce.

Finally, we rewarded ourselves with some local fare for lunch: rustico (a type of fried pasta), a fried calzone, and of course gelato on the way back to the car.

Our favorite part of the trip began when Sydney and Miranda met their first Italian friends, Gaia and Luigi, at the agriturismo pool Sunday afternoon. All four kids swam and played for hours and didn't seem to notice/mind that they weren't speaking the same language! That evening at dinner, our families dined together and we were able to understand each other well enough to have a very enjoyable time! It still amazes me, since we know so little Italian and they knew very little English! But once we figured out we could use a little French to bridge the gap, we managed even better and had a great time!

We even met up for breakfast on Monday, and then spent the day at the beach together before having to head home to Napoli. But not before exchanging addresses; we may be able to meet up again if we find ourselves in Bari--a comforting thought! Making a personal connection despite still feeling so out of my element turned out to be just what I needed from this spontaneous weekend get-away. Couldn't have planned that if I tried!

Weekend in Tuscany

Chianti classico is one of our favorite wines, so when we found out the region of Tuscany is only a 3 to 4 hour drive from Naples, it was a no-brainer to make it our first weekend trip...even with me being pregnant! We ventured out the last weekend in July to beat vacationing Italians, who generally go away in August.

We stayed at a quaint inn in rural Arezzo, in the eastern part of Tuscany. Fields of iconic sunflowers and rolling hills full of vineyards were EVERYWHERE! And right outside the door to our "family room" were also fragrant lavender bushes; I was pleased to find a sachet in the room for the taking.

We spent Friday afternoon swimming in the pool at the inn. With plenty of snacks, we held out until 8pm to enjoy a gourmet Italian meal at the inn's restaurant. We told the waiter we wanted to try a chianti classico, and he returned with a half bottle (since I'd just be having a taste) of what he described as "a VERY good Chianti classico." We were slightly worried about what the price might be, since we hadn't even looked at the wine menu. Come to find out we could more than afford the 4 euro (about $6) price! Gotta love Italy! We also tried some regional cheeses and cured meats, a pasta dish with buttery white truffles and a delicious but huge portion of regional steak. Even after 10pm, the girls were most excited to finally get to the gelato dessert.

We eased into our Saturday morning with cappuccinos and an amazing, typical European breakfast spread including muesli topped with fresh nectarine (okay, only I ate that), cured meats and cheeses (and only Brian ate that), yogurt, breakfast cakes, and a variety of cornettos (croissants) filled with Nutello, marmalade, or cream (my personal favorite). Yum!

After breakfast, we drove about an hour to Greve in Chianti (the main city center of Tuscany). We enjoyed walking around the Saturday market, where you could find everything from fruits, vegetables, cheeses and meats, to rugs, shoes, and clothing, etc.

Then we ducked out of the main piazza (square) into an enoteca (wine store) to explore the possibilities. We moved on to a tasting center, where you could pay anywhere from a Euro to several for a taste of hundreds of different types of wine. We were happy to find our favorite (special occasion) super tuscan wine Antinori Tignanello Tuscano--you could buy a TASTE for about $8...the whole bottle for about $80. But we already know it is good, so we passed.

I snapped a photo (for my New York-born Mom) of a statue of Giovanni da Verrazzano, an Italian explorer who was the first European explorer of North America, and in particular New York Harbor (1524), since the vikings (around 1000 AD). I just knew he must be important since there's a bridge in NYC named after him.

For lunch, we had one of my favorite Italian dishes yet, ribollita, which is a "reboiled" white bean-based stew with cooked greens and day-old bread used as a thickener. It was wonderfully rustic and wholesome, but more importantly, delicious. (And the only reason I even knew what it was is because of my foodie friend, Darlene!)

On our way back to the inn, we stopped at a Chianti winery, Villa Vignamaggio. Although we missed out on the tour since it was booked, we really came for the free tastings, so it was all good! We bought two bottles of Chianti classico and two bottles of their Super Tuscan blend. Four bottles down, 496 more to go to reach our total wine shipment allowance!

Sunday we drove to Cortona, the city where Under the Tuscan Sun was partially filmed, to spend the day before driving home. The movie is loosely based on a book with the same title, which was written by a woman (Frances Mayes) who moved to and still lives in Cortona. We happened on the first day of the Tuscan Sun Festival, but most of those activities were either off the beaten path or taking place in the evening. So we walked around the town taking in the beautiful sights, enjoyed a nice lunch al fresco, and ate the obligatory gelato-reward-for-good-behavior before reluctantly heading home. But we will be back...preferably when I can drink more wine.

Downtown Naples

I couldn't have done it without my tour guide/navigator, Melissa, but I did it--I finally drove off-base in Italy! It was only about 10 minutes each way to and from the Aversa train station, but it's a start!

We were on our way to explore downtown Naples (complete with friendly nationals willing to smile and wave for my random photos), which I still hadn't seen in the eight weeks we've been here. So, we parked the Pilot in a big lot, bought our tickets for each way at one train station and walked the three blocks to the correct train station. We hopped on board and began our smooth journey into Naples! (With walking time and waiting time between trains, it probably took about 1 1/2 hours to go the 30 miles to Naples, but 10 minutes was all I was willing to drive for a first try!)

I was glad to learn Melissa also likes to go "by the book" when it comes to tourist recommendations, and she'd even brought a useful book. So, after our train ride, we wandered into a coffee shop mentioned in her tour book, since it was right across from the station. We bought our ticket for "un cafe" (an espresso) for 80 Euro cents (about a buck) from the cashier, edged our way up to the counter, plunked down the ticket plus an extra 20 Euro cents as a tip, and answered an emphatic "si" when asked if we'd like sugar in our espresso. After chugging it down in about two sips, we chased it with the glass of sparkling water that was provided. After no more than 10 minutes, we were on our way to see some sights. Truthfully, it felt noticeably weird to be done so quick, having bought into the Starbucks strategic marketing plan to linger and savor your coffee...but then again, an Italian espresso is a fraction of the size and cost of a Starbucks espresso drink, so we moved on to put our jolt of caffeine to good use.

We walked down near the port of Naples, first stopping in the Galleria Umberto shopping arcade. It forms the shape of a cross, its roof is made of glass, and its floor is an impressive mosaic of the zodiac. Since all the Norwood women are Scorpios, I only snapped this one.

Then we caught a glimpse of Castle Nuovo from across the street, saving a visit there for another day. We meandered on (chuckling at the international toilet flag) by way of the Opera House, each of us vowing to see an opera while living in Italy. We ended up at Gran Caffe Gambrinus, a famous historical coffee bar, where we just had to partake in our second espresso of the morning (only the third espresso of my life).

After that, we geared up for a trek across town to find some famous Neapolitan pizza. The guide book recommended L'antica Pizzeria "da Michele", where Julia Roberts ate in the movie Eat, Pray, Love. But since it was already 2pm, the 50+people standing outside sealed the deal for Trianon (also in the guidebook) across the street. Not a disappointment in the least, it was most certainly the best pizza I've had yet! Now to bring Brian and the girls downtown...maybe once it cools off a bit.

The Newest Norwood

We are excited to announce the newest Norwood will be born in Naples, Italy in January!

Hence, I haven't been reporting on the wine (or food, for that matter) in Italy...but there will be plenty of time for that! And don't let this deter you from visiting--we plan to be as mobile as ever!

Defeated at Ikea

We have been in Italy seven weeks now. In our apartment three weeks. We are unpacked. But everything is NOT in its final resting place. Main living areas are decluttered for the most part. But bedrooms and closets are crammed just to conceal things, the piles high and leaning like the tower of Pisa. We are need of some organization in the worst way. So, naturally we went to Ikea!

We (Brian, that is, I still haven't driven yet) geared up for the drive to Ikea last night, a Wednesday evening. We were warned that a weekend would be far too crowded, so we ate leftovers for dinner and scooted off with the kids in tow.

Which probably was our first mistake. Wandering through a one-way-maze-of-a-store with these helpers at 7pm (or anytime, really) is not ideal. And it never fails, someone needs to use the bathroom at the most inopportune moment...Sydney emergently notified me of her need for a bathroom as soon as we got started. So, away we raced through the many crowds (don't know how there could be MORE people in this store on a weekend, it was that crowded), muttering "scuzi" now and then (which clearly doesn't mean "move out of the way please" like "excuse me" does, since no one budged!) Sure enough, the bathroom was located at the END, which was also the beginning of the maze, near the cafeteria. At least we didn't have to backtrack...we just restarted the circuit all over again.

I instructed the kids to stay with Daddy, and got a 30-second head start. I raced around looking for everything on my list: a (pink?) rug for Sydney's room, something to organize the hall closets, something to organize the girls' toy closets, some more of the same shelving I've been using in the kitchen cabinets, curtains (although I forgot my measurements), and whatever else caught my fancy. But caught in the current of people, I reached the end with only two small storage items in my big yellow Ikea shopping bag. Not a good indication of success, but I trudged on and descended to the lower level to continue my search of the entire lower level despite feeling somewhat defeated already.

By this time, Brian had the brilliant idea to take the kids to the outdoor play area. And after about 45 minutes of "shopping," I'd reached the check-out area. Self-service lines for 15 items or fewer were empty. But alas, I don't read Italian to serve myself! All the other lines? Full of at least 15 people each with 50+ items! I hesitated and switched lines a few times, trying to estimate how much time this would take for my two items totaling less than $10...I figured at least 30 more minutes. So, I surrendered my big yellow Ikea bag on a nearby display of flower pots and walked toward the exit.

I tell myself I could have had this same experience at the Ikea in Northern Virginia or even Japan. But deep down, I know there's more to it than simple shopping frustration. Moving to a foreign country has its benefits, but it also has its initial challenges--which in my experience, usually require adjustments in my expectations and attitude. I'm not there quite yet, but I know I'll get there! But not with the help from the GPS, but that's another story...

Day Trip to Ravello

Without a car, we'd been feeling a bit cooped up on base. So, our third weekend in Italy we decided to rent a car for the weekend to begin exploring nearby sights. (Most cars in Italy, by the way, have a standard transmission. Am I the last woman in Italy who doesn't know how to drive a stick shift? Probably. Just never had one to learn on and couldn't be bothered, really...) Anyway, Saturday morning we settled on a day trip to Ravello, a town high on the rugged cliffs above the Dragone valley, with beautiful views of the Mediterranean and the Amalfi coast.

We plugged in our GPS coordinates and set out for the hour-long drive. Soon after we entered the highway, we were exiting the highway. "GPS girl" decided we should take the road less traveled through the hills--probably the most direct route, but also the curviest one possible! (Doesn't make me want to learn how to drive a standard...) So, up, up and around we went! And up, up and out came Miranda's breakfast...with some warning, thankfully, into a plastic bag 10 minutes before we arrived at our destination!

We entered the piazza, where the impressive Duomo takes center stage. We browsed the shops, the kids chased the pigeons, and we ate lunch at the family-run restaurant, Cumpa Cosima, right off the square. We were told to eat more to clean our plates, but I just couldn't do it.

Luckily, Mama Netta didn't hold it against us and brought us her choice of homemade dessert for the girls--some fresh cherries, and a mini eclair. They scarfed it, and Brian and I only got one tiny taste each. So, she proceeded to bring us a piece of chocolate cream layer cake, and when we ate all that, she brought another slice just for Brian (which of course, he shared with his girls, since he knows what's good for him.) Mama Netta seemed to pull the amount of the bill out of thin air, but it worked out to be a great value and a great dining experience!

Then we stopped in Ceramiche da Lena, a popular good-quality ceramic shop. Margherita enjoyed pointing out which pattern Rachel Ray chose for her dishes while on her honeymoon. While keeping the kids away from all the breakables, I poured over all the options and settled on my first piece of Italian pottery--a beverage pitcher painted with lemons, which the Amalfi coast is known for.

And when life gives them lemons, the Italians make limoncello! So we stopped by the tiny factory, Profumi della Costiera, to taste (and buy) what some describe as some of the best limoncello made in Italy. Strong, but yummy!

Then we wandered around to take in the beautiful views. After a long walk through the town, we ended up at Villa Cimbrone, with its beautiful gardens and magnificent view overlooking the Mediterranean--just a tease to make us want to get even closer to it next time.